| My brief euphoria of finally getting the car running after sitting for five years has been replaced with disappointment yet again. With new 95+ injectors, JWT injector adapters with pigtails, new fuel filter, and resolving some PTU corroded connector issues, I got the car dialed in to idle pretty good by adjusting the throttle plates correctly and setting the base idle with the IACV. Good enough to drive around and to the smog check about 15 miles away with no problems. It was afterwards when I went for a longer jaunt down the freeway that after about 10 miles the check engine light came on. I eventually pulled onto city streets and the car just would die on idle. I had to keep the RPMs whenever I was idling. Pulling ECU codes when I got home resulted in 21 Ignition Circuit, 34 Detonation Sensor Circuit, 35 EGR Temp Sensor Circuit, and 42 Fuel Temp Sensor Circuit, however, I have never pulled and cleared codes before so these could all be residual codes. I cleared then started car. Again, the engine would eventually die during idle, but no check engine light manifested itself. And the idle quality wasn't significantly bad; it would seem to run fine for a few moments, but then the RPMs would suddenly drop to approximately 500 and start to get rough and sputter. I checked for misfire by pulling each coil wire and each resulted in detectable misfire and rough-er engine idle, so it doesn't appear to be ignition related. It would also appear that there is sufficient fuel getting to every cylinder because again, there was always a misfire would coil wire pulled, but returned to smooth-er running when reconnected. Adjusting the IACV screw to get higher idle RPMs didn't do anything, unlike before when I got the car running perfectly, the idle was sensitive to IACV adjustments. There is a hint of fuel vapors around the passenger side, but I could not visibly detect any fuel leaks on either side, on fuel lines, injectors, fuel rails, or on top of lower plenum. I pulled ECU codes and there was no malfunction detected. I'm now at my wits end here, even possibly believing that it could be the five year old fuel where after driving it approximately 20 miles it started picking up some of the "bad" stuff (there's still just under half-tank left). Is it time to enlist a "professional" shop to take over diagnostic? Or were my initial corrosion issues discovered in my wiring connections really a microcosm of the larger issue of a 24 year old brittle and corroded EFI wiring harness that really needs to be replaced to resolve all these maddening issues?
|
